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Disassemble MX780 instructions

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  • Disassemble MX780 instructions

    My mouse is out of warranty, and one of the buttons has started to double-click when I only single-click.
    I know exactly how to fix this -- open the microswitch under the button and clean it (like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3fepD-Ffws). I have done it MANY MANY times with several mice. i have hobby experience in electronics, mechanical things, and programming (just trying to show you I'm not stupid). PLEASE provide me instructions on how to disassemble the MX780 mouse. I understand you don't recommend this. I WANT TO DO IT ANYWAY, and I will deal with the consequences.
    PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO OPEN THIS MOUSE
    PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO OPEN THIS MOUSE
    PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO OPEN THIS MOUSE

  • #2
    Well fine... I just took mine apart. I've only taken a few mice apart, but this was by far the most complicated. (because of attachment limit, the last 2 pics will be in the next post).

    Important note: if the only reason you want to open the mouse is to clean inside the micro-switches under the side buttons, then you should know that under the side buttons are 90 degree micro-switches with plastic posts sticking out of them that are riveted (tips are melted) through the PCB. Those rivets and solder joints with have to be undone before you can get the micro-switches open (IF that's even possible). The rest of the micro switches are standard and can be opened.

    Note the LED light pipes on the side (near the center of pic 4) are just laying in there, so once you have the top of the mouse up a little bit, they can easily come loose and move around inside the mouse (the pipes have holes in the bottom that go over posts in the mouse).

    How I took it apart:

    Pic 1) Pop off left and right mouse buttons: put a finger under palm-rest end of the button, then push straight up towards the sky). The USB cord end of the buttons has a post sticking down, but it does not clip/click -- it just sits in a hole.

    Pic 2) Remove four tiny black screws from the top.

    Pic 3) There are four hidden screws in the bottom: one under the rear skate/glide/foot and three under the brushed-metal sticker that covers most of the bottom of the mouse. The metal sticker is easy to bend/deform when removing (just threw the sticker away, and cleaned off the left-over adhesive with isopropyl alcohol).
    Remove three screws under the brushed-metal sticker. NOTE: 2 of these MUST be removed before the silver side-pieces will pop up.
    Remove one screw under the rear mouse skate/glide/foot. If you are going to reuse the adhesive holding this foot on, then try to touch the sticky side as little as possible, so your skin oils don't weaken the bond.
    Use the hex-key that came with the mouse to raise the palm-rest ALL THE WAY up until the screw comes out (you'll know it's out because it starts clicking once per full turn).

    Pic 4) Remove 4 side screws: 2 by the USB cord -- NOTE there are 2 VERY TINY nuts that will come out of the other side when you unscrew these 2. Then one in the center of each of the silver side pieces (by the magnets). After these 4 screws are removed you can take off the silver side pieces by pulling apart the end that had the tiny nuts, then pressing up (towards the sky) on the other end near the magnets (I used a flat head screw driver to pry these ends up because they are in there really tight -- just be careful because you may mar the plastic).

    Once all that is done it's time to remove the top.

    There is a cable (see pic 2) that connects the palm-rest PCB to the bottom PCB. This cable is short and must be disconnected before the top of the mouse will come off. You might be able to disconnect it by VERY CAREFULLY using needle-nose pliers or strong tweezers though the hole where the cable is pointed to in pic 2, but I didn't know about the cable so it just came out when I pulled the top off. Also the palm-rest can be popped out (it comes out towards the sky), once the hex-key is used to raise it all the way, but this cable will still be connected to the bottom PCB. Or maybe you could reach it (with pliers/tweezers) through the sides once you have removed all the screws in pic 2 and pic 3.

    NOTE: There is a ribbon cable connecting the top and bottom of the mouse, but you have to get the top past (get it above) the side buttons before you have enough room to disconnect the cable. The cable is longer than the palm-rest cable so it's a lot easier to get in there with tweezers, (once the top is above the side buttons). The connector in the bottom (sorry forgot to look at the top) is opened by gently pulling each side of it up (towards the sky), then pulling out the cable (note: it's possible to pull the connector too far open and the clip will come out -- you can just put it back in, but you'll probably have to make sure it's facing a certain way). If the connector is fully opened the cable should come out very easily. BE CAREFUL with this cable and ESPECIALLY with reinserting it -- I don't remember forcing it, but it seems I bent two of the contacts. If you can, try to keep the side with the contacts from ever touching anything (including the connector until you close it). The cable is reattached by sliding it into the connector until it stops, and then pressing both sides of the connector down.

    Part One - unfasten the two clips:
    Sorry I forgot to take a pic, so I used G.Skill's pic (with the clips covered up). The clips are at the very front (USB cord side) of the mouse and underneath the silver side-pieces (pic 5). The clip is attached to the top-piece, and must be pressed in, while pulling the top mouse piece up to the sky, but you won't get far because the side buttons are trapping the top piece.

    Part two - fully remove the top-piece:
    I'm not sure of the proper way to remove the top, but all I could figure out is that you have to BEND 2 side-buttons (either the 2 on the left side or the 2 on the right side) out of the way, then pull that same side of the top up (towards the sky) past the buttons. Then do the same on the other side. The reason I'm not sure is because you have to bend the buttons out REALLY far to give enough space to get the top past them -- so far you think you're going to break them (however I've bent both sides THREE times and they never broke).

    The first time I tried to get the top past the side buttons, I couldn't figure it out and ended up just forcing it up (stupid but I was getting frustrated) -- this broke the side buttons off from the bottom of the mouse. These buttons are plastic-riveted to the bottom of the mouse, and that's where they broke (at the rivets), so I took out the bottom PCB (see pic 6 for the screws), pressed the buttons back in place (the rivets helped center them) and poured a glob of JB Weld epoxy on where the rivets had broke (and some on the sides around the base of the buttons, but NOT between the buttons and the outside-wall of the mouse). If you do this, be careful not to let any epoxy harden so tall that the bottom PCB can't sit flat anymore.

    If anyone ever finds this post useful, please let me know.
    Have a good day.
    Click image for larger version

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    • #3
      Last 2 pics.
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